Travel Destinations

Upon arriving on the Boca Paila Fishing Lodge, one of the oldest Tulum hotels, promptly at 7:30 am, we noticed the place was already hopping. Visitors had been finishing up breakfast and the guides were getting the last of their gear in the boats while being knowledgeably directed by Chico, the general manager and the principle host of the property. Obviously, this was not the first occasion these guys had done this. In actual fac,t Boca Paila has been in business since the late 1960′s. To say these guys are pioneers of fishing in this area is a real understatement, they were the only players in town back then and it had been a 2 hour drive from Tulum, not twenty to thirty minutes as it is now.

We came for the fishing and they were prepared for us. Subsequent to momentary introductions with Chico, he informed us that our boat and guide Alfonso was waiting on the pier for us. A quick examination of our tackle and off we went. Chico made certain we also had a number of the very best flies and jigs for the region and season before we departed and handed those to our guide Alfonso. Following, he personally escorted us to the boat.

Once on the water, Alfonso didn’t waste much time and we took off across the glass lagoon in search of our first fish of the day. There was a brief stop at a cut in the lagoon, where it meets the sea, and Alfonso said we needed to stop for something there. Without giving away all the secrets of the area, the stop proved to be quite helpful during the day.

After the stop, where the lagoon meets the sea, we made our way to the first of many of what I assume are Alfonso’s favorite spots within this magical lagoon. There awaited at least 30 miles of virtually untouched and protected wetlands and interconnected natural waterways.

Alfonso killed the engine as we arrived at the opening spot and he started poling us across the black rooted mangrove shoreline as he surveyed the water with his proficient vision. Within 10 minutes, he saw the bone fish and we were directed to “11 ‘o clock about 30 feet out,” and then the rapid plea to “strip it, strip it, strip it!” We followed our guides command and bingo! My Dad had our primary fish on. Inside two minutes, an additional good sized bone fish was caught and released by me. This was going to be fun!

Further along the shore, Alfonso continued to scrutinize the waters from his three foot platform on behalf of the next catch. This occasion, it was Permit and I had one on the line. If you have never caught a Permit fish with a fly rod or maybe light tackle, its difficult to explain just how much entertainment it genuinely is. It had been a run of the mill size for the locale, about 10 pounds but it fought for fifteen minutes before relenting, and following a quick photo, released. What a charge and what a ravishing fish!

A variety more of Bone Fish and a mixed bag of Jack, Mud Snapper and Porgy and off we went to the next spot. I thought to myself, if many more of the spots are like that, one of my arms may not make it the day. We had various issues using the line on my rod and had to return to the lodge for more line. Alfonso made the adjustments and in no time we were back up and running.

After about an hour of poling along, in the brackish waters, near our first prize poo,l we had caught a few more of the undesired Snappers, Jack and Porgy so we decided to move along again. I should mention that there is rarely a dull moment on the lagoon. Even when you are not catching fish, there is a lot to see. Throughout the day, we probably saw twelve rays of varied species and witnessed several instances of Mullet boiling, bursting and leaping out of the water to escape from a striking Barracuda along with many birds of countless species and colors. We also saw a nesting pair of Sea Eagles (Osprey).

We crossed the lagoon, at elevated speed, for an afternoon of fishing before gliding in, engine off and back to the poling for Alfredo. I should mention that Boca Paila Fishing Lodge has an especially able fisherman and guide in Alfonso. I did not see a tenth of what he spotted for us. Of course, he was sitting up three feet higher than us, but he was amazing.

Just prior to lunch I caught my second Permit and this one was closer to fifteen pounds and he wanted to run. The Permit are relatively common in the Tulum, Boca Paila locale of the lagoon so I should not have been too startled to see Alfonso making lunch while I fought this fish. What did surprise me was that when I said “I think he’s coming in, grab the net”, Alfonso did not move. The fish gave me my answer when he took off on an additional long run and I caught a dry smile from Alfonso and went back to my fish. An additional ten minutes and I would at long last land that one, and yes, Alfonso had the net ready this occasion.

After lunch, which was great by the way, a ham sandwich, chips and a beer. After being in the sun for 4-5 hours, it was one of the best lunches I have had in a while and Alfonso showed us the Mexican way of adding some hot sauce to the sandwiches…it was good. We moved closer to shore and again began to stalk the next catch, it was hot and the fishing seemed to slow a bit in the afternoon heat, but Alfonso was relentless. When he caught me sitting on the bow, he demanded that I stand up. “You can’t catch fish sitting down…stand up and get ready!” I was up in an instant and was slightly embarrassed but that ended quickly after I hooked into another Permit, this one was a bit smaller, probably 8 pounds but the fight lasted ten minutes and the thrill was definitely not gone.

We stalked a few more small groups of Bone Fish and Permit pairs, landing a few more run of the mill sized Bone Fish before moving on once again. This occasion, as we came across the new spot, Alfonso informed us that this was a sizable channel and one of the deeper parts of the lagoon. Still only twelve to fifteen feet deep but we changed up the tackle and went to a large jig with a heavy leader. I am guessing about 20 to 25 pound test.

This is where things got very attention grabbing. We must have hit that channel as a school of baitfish were passing through or had just passed because it was a feeding frenzy! The first casts for both my father and I produced two large Snook inside the 20 pound range. Pretty good fights for both, but pound for pound, I believe the Permit is hard to beat. In any case, as things progressed, and cast after cast produced larger and larger Snook, I started thinking about the obscure Super Slam: Bone Fish, Permit, Snook and Tarpon. I would have been thrilled to have such an incredible day and fall short but then, as if on queue, an additional whopping strike and out of the water it flew. The Tarpon ran past the boat at full speed then made a run back with another spectacular leap. While it was relatively small for Tarpon at about ten pounds, it was the icing on an ideal day of fishing.

We stayed at the channel for another twenty minutes or so and I was so tired and completely satisfied, that I handed my rod to Alfonso. I watched him catch a few more Snook while my Dad did the same and brought in a couple more Bone Fish for good measure.

All in all, I have to say that this was the best day of fishing EVER. Between the company, the Boca Paila Fishing Lodge services and the amazing number of fish we caught, this one will be tough to beat. I would like to again personally thank the staff at Boca Paila for this wonderful experience we will both never forget!

Ron Williams is a freelance travel writer living year round in Tulum, Mexico specializing in information about Tulum hotels , Playa del Carmen hotels and life on the Yucatan Peninsula. Feel free to contact Ron directly if you need local tips or information.